Bike shop mechanics know more about fixing bikes and keeping them rolling than anyone. Some of their ideas will go against conventional wisdom because of the shop’s location and rider preference. That’s why we contacted bike shops from all over the U.S. to pry tech secrets and insights out of their top mechanics.



Dan Fedderly of Wheel and Sprocket in Oshkosh, Wisconsin

Fix it fast when it’s cold: “When riding in cold weather, the last thing you want to do is try to fix a flat tire. I recommend that riders switch from using CO2 cartridges to Geax Pit Stop Magnum cartridges. The cartridge has a latex sealant inside, along with compressed propane gas (not CO2), so it will patch the leak as it inflates your tire. The canister will work on tube, tubeless or tubular tires, and the nozzle is good for Schrader or presta valves. You may want to bring your CO2 inflator as a backup to add a little more air if needed.”
Change your settings: “When setting up your suspension for cold weather, adjust your fork and shock to a faster rebound setting. That will help compensate for the viscosity of the oil, which gets heavier and slower with cold temperatures.”
Watch your durometer: “When riding in cold weather, put much softer-durometer tires on your bike to improve your traction on icy winter trails. The durometer of a tire is a measure of the hardness of the rubber. The softer the rubber, the more traction it will give you on a hard, smooth surface, especially ice. The Maxxis High Roller, with a durometer rating of 42, is a good choice on winter trails, as it works much better on ice than most other tires.”

Jeremy Millner of Orange Cycle in Orlando, Florida

Pump up the volume: “When a new rider is just starting out, we put 50 pounds of pressure in his tires. It’s easier to let the air out of your tires instead of adding air once you are on the trail.”
Set the sag: “When setting up the suspension on a new short-travel trailbike, I suggest 10-millimeters of sag (the amount of suspension travel soaked up with the rider sitting motionless on the bike while leaning against a wall). That’s usually the perfect setting for the rear suspension. The bike will pedal easily without a lot of bobbing, and the suspension will have the cushion you need when you encounter rough sections of trail and rocks.”
Keep it clean: “As far as maintenance goes, we really like Finish Line Super Bike Wash. It’s the best stuff we’ve found for cleaning a bike. You just put it on and wipe off the dirt. We don’t really like washing bikes. We find that getting water in bikes tends to make them creak afterward.”
Get some new wheels: “If a mountain bike rider is thinking about buying a road bike, there is another option. We’ve got a handful of people who buy a second set of wheels with 1.5-inch, slick tires and use them for road rides. We have Tuesday night urban rides in downtown Orlando. We get 20 to 30 people usually, and most of the riding is on the road.”
Grease those threads: “Put some grease on the threads before installing your pedals. It makes them easier to put on and take off when you need to transport your bike, whether inside a vehicle or in a bike box on an airliner.”
Save your hands: “Shift the chain onto the large chainring before trying to loosen your pedals. This will ensure that if you slip when working on the pedals, you won’t slam your hand directly onto the chainring teeth. Also, try to keep your hand on the top side of the wrench to keep the wrench between your hand and the chainring for extra protection.”



Eric “Thor” Van Mechelen of Bicycle Warehouse in San Diego, California

Change your cables: “Replace your shifter cables every four months if you’re an avid rider.”
Stop that howling: “If you have a problem with squealing disc brakes, stay away from aerosol lubricants. They can easily contaminate the brakes and make them howl.”
Try going organic: “Use organic pads to make disc brakes quieter. They don’t tend to grab as well, though.”
Get ’em straight: “Make sure your disc brakes are properly aligned. Even having the brakes out of alignment a little bit will make the brakes rub and wear out more quickly.”
Do it the easy way: “The easiest way to align the brakes is to loosen the two caliper mounting bolts. Once you do that, hold the brake in place and visually make sure that the rotor is centered in the caliper, then tighten it. Alternatively, you can put a business card on each side of the rotor, then snug the bolts down while grasping the brake.”